When I stepped off the plane yesterday in Nairobi I experienced a huge temperature differential, it was 65 degree in Nairobi and I was coming from 121.5 in one of the towns in Egypt. My point is, it was bloody hot in Egypt. More hot that I have ever been and probably more hot than I will ever be.
Ten of us left for Egypt last Monday. It was a five hour flight (not going to lie, the homesick part of my brain saw those five hours as five hours closer to Europe, which is five hours closer to home). We landed in Cairo and begin exploring the city right away. Cairo is a shockingly developed city, maybe only in comparison to the city I am in now. From my hotel balcony, we could see two of the three pyramids, so of course we took cheesy pictures on the balcony to prove it.
The following day we spent totally in Cairo. We went to the pyramids, which are huge, each block is roughly five feet tall. The first one is the largest and then they get smaller. It is so weird to stand looking at them and to also be able to see a city of 30,000,000 people. We were able to go into the second one, crawling bent at the waist at a 90 degree angle up and down this corridor until we reached the burial chamber. It was pretty cool to be in the center of a pyramid but the air was hot and stagnant and there really wasn't anything inside the room as grave robbers looted it thousands of years ago. We rode camels from the second pyramid to the third, which was an experience riding a camel in the desert. After lunch in the shade, not much hotter than the sun, we went to the sphinx. The sphinx is right next to the pyramids but depressingly a lot smaller than I would have though, or maybe the pyramids are bigger than I thought. Regardless, somewhere, I was wrong about dimensions. You can't go inside the sphinx or get very close to it because they are restoring it, but we were close enough to see the lack of nose and that it really does have the body of a lion. We then went to the Egyptian Museum, where the mummy of Queen Hetshepsuit was recently discovered, but we didn't get to see but they are working on it. We did, however, get to see the treasure of King Tut. Most every tomb in Egypt was looted, either because they stuck a giant sign that a tomb with lots of goodies was located there (pyramids) or dumb luck as was the case in the Valley of the Kings, where the tombs were moved after they figured out that giant pyramids call attentions to things. Tut's tomb was built next this other Pharaoh's tomb and when grave robbers dug to find the other guy's stuff, they dumped all the dirt onto what would become the entry to King Tut's tomb, so no one found it until less than 100 years ago, still in tack. Everything from the tomb was moved to the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. The stuff from his tomb takes up an entire floor of the Museum. The head piece that is so famous is beautiful, the amount of work that was put into it, and everything else, for a king only to rule for less than 10 years is amazing.
After this hot tiring day, we had a 2am wake up call to make a 5am flight down to Aswan, a town near the border of Sudan that sits right on the Nile. We began touring what would become one of many temples that sit along the Nile. It was surreal to actually be standing under, touching and walking around in something that was build in 300bc or older. New England's concept of old is 1600's (thanks mom for the history lesson), and we think stuff in Europe from the Middle Ages is old. This stuff was REALLY old. The hieroglyphics stood up really well over time, but apparently the walls of these temples were colors and all the pictures had colors, so the artifacts outside, like the temples, have been subjected to elements and lack color.
After our first temple, we boarded our Cruise ship, which would be our home for three nights. The ship wasn't large, has 70 cabins, so roughly 140 people when full, and there are 300 of these boats registered to cruise the Nile. That is a lot of tourists. The boat was nothing less than spectacular. It was like a miniature Titanic in terms of grandeur. When they turned our rooms down at night, they made our fresh towels into different creatures, I think the most amusing was a friend had her towels turned into a person, wearing her husbands shorts and sunglasses, reading their Egypt guide book that was turned to the page of our next stop. The food was endless. The second most amazing part was the pool on the top deck, which we used a fair bit. Despite the heat and spending the rest of the day in the sun, we still spent more time in the sun in the pool. The best part of cruising the Nile. We started in Aswan and cruised slowly for two days to Luxor. It was amazing watching the desert role by. I have never seen desert before, so it was so interesting to see the affect of the Nile on the desert. There would be 100 meters of green, lush area and then it would just stop and be nothing. The Nile is huge, maybe the Hudson River at its widest, maybe bigger. And in some places, in between little islands in it, very clear.
When we got to Luxor, we toured three tombs in the Valley of the Kings. It was 110.5 in the sun at 9am, I would hate to know what it was later in the day. The Valley of the Kings is just that, a valley in between two sandstone walls, filled with sand and holes in the ground of tombs they have found so far. We went into three tombs, we didn't go into King's Tuts because everything is in the museum, he died suddenly so the tomb paintings aren't finished and you don't even get to see the mummy because he was buried with a lead coffin. The three we went into gave us a glimpse of what the temples may have looked like covered in paint. Since the elements haven't touched them the color is still there on 90% of the pictures. It was really stunning. The colors are so vibrant and help tell a story, which after a few days of learning about hieroglyphics, we could begin to pull out images we recognized and a little bit of what was happening.
We visited three more temples in Luxor, one with an onlooking McDonalds (possibly the best view of any McDonalds in the world, save the one in Rome, which I am told could compete with this one). Then we grudgingly left Luxor on a red eye back to Cairo.
Our final day in Cairo was spent looking at the different religions and their holy centers. 98% of Egypt is Muslim and Cairo alone has something like 10,000 mosques. We went into the largest one, a monument for an important holy figure. As I understand it, women and nonmuslims are usually not allowed in Mosques, but this is a bit of a tourist stop, so it is allowed, but we still followed religious protocol, such as removing our shoes and covering our heads. It was amazing inside. The ceiling was covered in small candle holders which illuminated the room. The art and the small details were just amazing. Plus, you step outside and there is a perfect view of all of Cairo. Then we visited two coptic churches, 2% of Egypt is Christian, but believe that the religion formed in Egypt because the Virgin Mary and Jesus fled to Egypt at some point, I don't really understand it. The churches are really nondescript on the outside but inside it was like stepping back in time. The people are so pious and believe so strongly, the church looked like something from times long ago. Our last religious stop was a synagogue. There are 1,000,000 jews in Egypt and the temple was even more nondescript on the outside, you wouldn't have known there was anything there apart from the armed guard and metal detectors. It was very small and hot inside but beautiful inside. Hebrew writings everywhere and even a Torah at the alter from an earlier service.
We were all really bummed to leave Egypt, we had such a good time and even worse, we were on a red eye that didn't leave Cairo until 12:30am Monday morning. A little surprise was sprung on us, due to the travel agent failing to tell us, when we got on the plane. Our flight was going to Nairobi via Khartoum. Don't know where Khartoum is? Neither did we, until the pilot told us. We had a lay over in The Sudan. Yup, I spent an hour in the Sudan. It shocked me that everyone on the plane but us got off the plane in The Sudan. I honestly have no clue what is in the Sudan. One guy was a super Sudan snob, asking her why would she go to a nasty place like Kenya, the sudan is so much better. Weird!! But, aside from the hilarity of spending an hour in the sudan at 4am, we got home and all quickly got back in bed and slept well into the afternoon. I just got up for class this morning and could honestly continue sleeping.
I have two weeks left of the program, a week in Zanzibar and will be home three weeks from this Wednesday. Time has flown but I am really itching to get home, get back to something that makes sense. Africa is so trying and it takes a lot of effort to be here and I am ready to have my normal life back, at least until the next time!
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
Thursday, June 28, 2007
Coppertone Baby Found on Kenyan Coast at Age 23
I would certainly love law school a lot more if it even momentarily represented my current "law school" experience!!
After we returned from Samburu last weekend we had two class days and then hopped a plane to Diani Beach, which is located on the southern Kenya coast near the Tanzania boarder. We arrived Thursday morning to the most amazing resort I have ever seen, we pull into the grand entrance and can see the ocean from the drive way. It took most of us under 10 minutes to get to our room and get into our bathing suits and get back to the pool. Since it is winter now the heat wasn't unbearable, it was around 80 degrees during the day and 70 at night with the ocean being roughly 65, more humid than the city is but really pleasant. Our days were filled with nothingness, which is an amazing feeling that verged to guilt that we subdued with the free booze since it was all-inclusive!! I laid by the pool for 6 hours a day, pulling myself away to accomplish the necessary tasks such as getting more booze (damned monkeys weren't trainable to fetch cocktails) and eating at an amazing restaurant. The beach was feet away and while laying by the pool or getting a hot stone massage (yup, did that too), you could hear the waves breaking. I would have much preferred laying in the pure white sand but time on the beach was less than relaxing as the curio shops seemed to grow legs and men hocking carved objects wouldn't leave us alone. Despite this, we did get some amazing time in the water. The waves were relatively small since about 300 meters out there was a sand bar and reef which took the brunt of the open sea action. We played in the waves, floated around and tried our hardest to avoid the GIANT (feet, plural, feet long pokers) sea urchins. When the tide came in and the sun went down, we enjoyed ourselves at the bar and the various evening activities arranged for us by the hotel. It is a German resort and I was beyond pleased to be eating German pretzels again. One evening, our entire group went to Ali Babu's Cave, a restaurant located in a naturally formed cave. For very little money, we had the most amazing meal I have had in recent memory, honestly, I would have this as my last meal before execution, it was that good. We all dressed up, put make up on (an accomplishment itself as I haven't done my hair or face in WEEKS), brought out the proper manners (some better than others on all fronts) and had a great meal. It was so much fun, well worth the annoyance of planning it. After four days in the sun I browned up nicely! Even a Kenyan on the beach commented on my nice color and was curious if I was an ex-pat from here. My tan lines are kinda ridiculous but worth it to be SO tan.
We are now back in dirty smelly Nairobi. To make up for our two day week last week, we are suffering through five days this week. But, to the program's credit, it has been broken up nicely, we went to the UN yesterday instead of environmental law class. The head of the United Nations Environment Program legal division talked with us. I could easily see myself taking my legal degree and putting it to use in that department. It was really interesting, plus getting to walk up the delegates walk way under all the flags of the UN was amazing. I am surprised none of our kids got arrested. The UN is directly across the street from the US Embassy and some our trouble making boys ran across the street and were standing outside "demanding" entry and then stood there and saluted. It's illegal to take pictures of the Embassy, I would hate to know what trying to break in would be!
Tomorrow is our last day of school for the week and then I have my first full weekend in Nairobi. Saturday we are doing the super tourist things, giraffe kissing, petting baby elephants, animals orphanage and Sunday I plan on watching the entire first season of Lost. THEN Monday morning a small group of us depart for EGYPT (I still can't believe it is true!). We fly to Cairo, spend a day there seeing the pyramids (we may even get tickets to go in the pyramid) and the sphinx and the Egyptian museum, then we fly south to a place where we board a ship and cruise down/up the Nile for three days stopping at different places each day, ending in Luxor, which is in southern Egypt and is the site of the Valley of the Kings. Then we fly back to Cairo on Saturday, see all the mosques, churches and go to the market then fly back to Nairobi Monday morning. It should be amazing.
After Egypt I only have two weeks of class left, two days of finals and then off to Zanzibar then home August 1. Someone pointed out to me that I have 33 days left. Not sure where time is going but I am certainly having fun every second!!
After we returned from Samburu last weekend we had two class days and then hopped a plane to Diani Beach, which is located on the southern Kenya coast near the Tanzania boarder. We arrived Thursday morning to the most amazing resort I have ever seen, we pull into the grand entrance and can see the ocean from the drive way. It took most of us under 10 minutes to get to our room and get into our bathing suits and get back to the pool. Since it is winter now the heat wasn't unbearable, it was around 80 degrees during the day and 70 at night with the ocean being roughly 65, more humid than the city is but really pleasant. Our days were filled with nothingness, which is an amazing feeling that verged to guilt that we subdued with the free booze since it was all-inclusive!! I laid by the pool for 6 hours a day, pulling myself away to accomplish the necessary tasks such as getting more booze (damned monkeys weren't trainable to fetch cocktails) and eating at an amazing restaurant. The beach was feet away and while laying by the pool or getting a hot stone massage (yup, did that too), you could hear the waves breaking. I would have much preferred laying in the pure white sand but time on the beach was less than relaxing as the curio shops seemed to grow legs and men hocking carved objects wouldn't leave us alone. Despite this, we did get some amazing time in the water. The waves were relatively small since about 300 meters out there was a sand bar and reef which took the brunt of the open sea action. We played in the waves, floated around and tried our hardest to avoid the GIANT (feet, plural, feet long pokers) sea urchins. When the tide came in and the sun went down, we enjoyed ourselves at the bar and the various evening activities arranged for us by the hotel. It is a German resort and I was beyond pleased to be eating German pretzels again. One evening, our entire group went to Ali Babu's Cave, a restaurant located in a naturally formed cave. For very little money, we had the most amazing meal I have had in recent memory, honestly, I would have this as my last meal before execution, it was that good. We all dressed up, put make up on (an accomplishment itself as I haven't done my hair or face in WEEKS), brought out the proper manners (some better than others on all fronts) and had a great meal. It was so much fun, well worth the annoyance of planning it. After four days in the sun I browned up nicely! Even a Kenyan on the beach commented on my nice color and was curious if I was an ex-pat from here. My tan lines are kinda ridiculous but worth it to be SO tan.
We are now back in dirty smelly Nairobi. To make up for our two day week last week, we are suffering through five days this week. But, to the program's credit, it has been broken up nicely, we went to the UN yesterday instead of environmental law class. The head of the United Nations Environment Program legal division talked with us. I could easily see myself taking my legal degree and putting it to use in that department. It was really interesting, plus getting to walk up the delegates walk way under all the flags of the UN was amazing. I am surprised none of our kids got arrested. The UN is directly across the street from the US Embassy and some our trouble making boys ran across the street and were standing outside "demanding" entry and then stood there and saluted. It's illegal to take pictures of the Embassy, I would hate to know what trying to break in would be!
Tomorrow is our last day of school for the week and then I have my first full weekend in Nairobi. Saturday we are doing the super tourist things, giraffe kissing, petting baby elephants, animals orphanage and Sunday I plan on watching the entire first season of Lost. THEN Monday morning a small group of us depart for EGYPT (I still can't believe it is true!). We fly to Cairo, spend a day there seeing the pyramids (we may even get tickets to go in the pyramid) and the sphinx and the Egyptian museum, then we fly south to a place where we board a ship and cruise down/up the Nile for three days stopping at different places each day, ending in Luxor, which is in southern Egypt and is the site of the Valley of the Kings. Then we fly back to Cairo on Saturday, see all the mosques, churches and go to the market then fly back to Nairobi Monday morning. It should be amazing.
After Egypt I only have two weeks of class left, two days of finals and then off to Zanzibar then home August 1. Someone pointed out to me that I have 33 days left. Not sure where time is going but I am certainly having fun every second!!
Wednesday, June 20, 2007
2 weeks down and I have yet to be hit by a car!
I have been in Nairobi now for almost two weeks and it certainly is an experience!!!!! Classes began last week and we are all settling into a nice routine which is fractured by the safaris and beach trips that have been planned for us!!
Classes are alright. I am taking International Environmental Law and Comparative Family Law. I honestly thought I would be enjoying the environmental law class far more given that it was my college major but the class is being taught by Kenyans who have a vastly different teaching style. They assign three full chapters of reading a night (roughly 300 pages) but don't expect anyone to read it and then lecture for two hours straight on the reading we didn't need to do. After first year of law school I thought I would be happy to say good bye to the Socratic method and cases but I would kill for something concrete, case law to memorize, something. Being lectured at is rather dull. The family law class is interesting. It is small and much more like a Mount Holyoke seminar class, a lot of discussion. The professor is American, so it is very similar to what I would expect from a small law school elective. I promise never to complain about my law school's facilities ever again. Honestly, the law school here is a joke, I have no clue how they get an education. I try to keep in mind that they are doing the best they can, but it is so hard not to compare. They don't have a complete library, books arrive if they are donated by schools in the west. Their Amjur/CJR is not complete, ones are missing. They have dial up internet that makes what Mom just got rid of seem lightening fast. The students can't afford text books. There are barely windowpanes on the windows, so the screaming traffic outside drowns out the professor. The building looks like a military barracks. It is strange but makes me appreciate my heinous round law school so much more!!!
This past weekend we went north of Nairobi, crossing the equator, to Samburu Game Reserve. It is a small park but we saw a lot of wildlife. Within five minutes of being in a park a HUGE female lion crossed the road. Then we saw lions each day we were there. Plus all the other cool animals and birds. The highlight of the whole trip was our accommodations. We stayed at a luxury tented camp, which is very popular here. Our "tent" had beds, electrical outlets, a fan, an attached local stone bathroom with flushing toilet and hot water. It was pretty amazing. The food was perfect and there was ALOT of it. The staff was so helpful. We had game drives (heading out in land cruisers to find wildlife) at 6am and 4pm, that left the middle of the day to keep ourselves occupied. We decided to stay in the pool from about 10am to 3pm, leaving only briefly for food. A waiter was assigned to our group and took and delivered fruity drink orders pool side. It was pretty amazing. On the way back to Nairobi Monday evening we stopped ON the equator and took pictures with a sign indicating our location. It was certainly an experience.
Tomorrow we board a plane to Diani Beach which is on the southern Indian Ocean coast of Kenya. The resort there is rumored to be even better than in Samburu. We will be there for four days. I think our only problem will be choosing what activities to do during the four days. There is snorkeling on the reefs, they take you out in a glass bottom boat and let you out in the reef. There is a restaurant in a cave that we want to go to. Of course, laying on the beach is also an option!! Plus every other water sport known to man. I am SO excited because I have never been to the Caribbean. The closest I have come is the Mediterranean and compared to Maine's ocean I head the Indian Ocean is crystal clear and full of exotic fish!!! It should be an amazing trip. Its a hard life, only having classes two days this week in order to accommodate our travel schedule.
We have one full week of classes when we get back from Diani and then have a week vacation (how I am getting law school credit when I am traveling more than reading is beyond me!). I toyed with a million different ideas of what to do during break, spend it on the coast at a different resort, go to Uganda/Rwanda to trek for gorillas, go to Madagascar, stay in Nairobi and save some money. But, then a few people came up with an amazing idea, Egypt. On the 1st July 10 of us are flying to Cairo for a 6 day trip. We are seeing all the sights, taking a sleeping train to the Valley of the Kings, taking a traditional boat trip back up the Nile to Cairo. It is going to be AMAZING!!!!!! I can't pass this up! I had a Mount Holyoke friend who studied abroad in Cairo and she assured me it was worth it, plus the cost of the plane ticket from the states is nearly double the cost of the whole trip (including airfare from here). And the group of kids are really cool and we have been traveling well together. I think we will have a lot of fun, but let's be honest, even if I hated them, for this trip I would man up and deal.
Nairobi is a lot of fun. We are slowly getting braver and venturing further from our home. We have gone to the local market. Tried some restaurants. I haven't been brave enough to drive the local form of transportation, matatus, but some people have. I am still repeating in my head "look right, left, right" when crossing the street and haven't gotten hit yet, but walking back from school yesterday was certainly questionable. The only big difference is the pollution. They just outlawed leaded gas last year and they certainly don't have the emissions standards we have. I believe their version of the EPA began in 2004, so they are a bit behind in that arena. My boogers completely black from exhaust and I am constantly coughing. The other kids on the program seem nice, but we are all typical law students, so there have been some personality clashes already.
Other than that, nothing really exciting happening here (hahaha!!!) I have to go shower for my second day and last day of classes this week!!! It's an early morning tomorrow, leaving the apartment at 6am for the coast!!!
Classes are alright. I am taking International Environmental Law and Comparative Family Law. I honestly thought I would be enjoying the environmental law class far more given that it was my college major but the class is being taught by Kenyans who have a vastly different teaching style. They assign three full chapters of reading a night (roughly 300 pages) but don't expect anyone to read it and then lecture for two hours straight on the reading we didn't need to do. After first year of law school I thought I would be happy to say good bye to the Socratic method and cases but I would kill for something concrete, case law to memorize, something. Being lectured at is rather dull. The family law class is interesting. It is small and much more like a Mount Holyoke seminar class, a lot of discussion. The professor is American, so it is very similar to what I would expect from a small law school elective. I promise never to complain about my law school's facilities ever again. Honestly, the law school here is a joke, I have no clue how they get an education. I try to keep in mind that they are doing the best they can, but it is so hard not to compare. They don't have a complete library, books arrive if they are donated by schools in the west. Their Amjur/CJR is not complete, ones are missing. They have dial up internet that makes what Mom just got rid of seem lightening fast. The students can't afford text books. There are barely windowpanes on the windows, so the screaming traffic outside drowns out the professor. The building looks like a military barracks. It is strange but makes me appreciate my heinous round law school so much more!!!
This past weekend we went north of Nairobi, crossing the equator, to Samburu Game Reserve. It is a small park but we saw a lot of wildlife. Within five minutes of being in a park a HUGE female lion crossed the road. Then we saw lions each day we were there. Plus all the other cool animals and birds. The highlight of the whole trip was our accommodations. We stayed at a luxury tented camp, which is very popular here. Our "tent" had beds, electrical outlets, a fan, an attached local stone bathroom with flushing toilet and hot water. It was pretty amazing. The food was perfect and there was ALOT of it. The staff was so helpful. We had game drives (heading out in land cruisers to find wildlife) at 6am and 4pm, that left the middle of the day to keep ourselves occupied. We decided to stay in the pool from about 10am to 3pm, leaving only briefly for food. A waiter was assigned to our group and took and delivered fruity drink orders pool side. It was pretty amazing. On the way back to Nairobi Monday evening we stopped ON the equator and took pictures with a sign indicating our location. It was certainly an experience.
Tomorrow we board a plane to Diani Beach which is on the southern Indian Ocean coast of Kenya. The resort there is rumored to be even better than in Samburu. We will be there for four days. I think our only problem will be choosing what activities to do during the four days. There is snorkeling on the reefs, they take you out in a glass bottom boat and let you out in the reef. There is a restaurant in a cave that we want to go to. Of course, laying on the beach is also an option!! Plus every other water sport known to man. I am SO excited because I have never been to the Caribbean. The closest I have come is the Mediterranean and compared to Maine's ocean I head the Indian Ocean is crystal clear and full of exotic fish!!! It should be an amazing trip. Its a hard life, only having classes two days this week in order to accommodate our travel schedule.
We have one full week of classes when we get back from Diani and then have a week vacation (how I am getting law school credit when I am traveling more than reading is beyond me!). I toyed with a million different ideas of what to do during break, spend it on the coast at a different resort, go to Uganda/Rwanda to trek for gorillas, go to Madagascar, stay in Nairobi and save some money. But, then a few people came up with an amazing idea, Egypt. On the 1st July 10 of us are flying to Cairo for a 6 day trip. We are seeing all the sights, taking a sleeping train to the Valley of the Kings, taking a traditional boat trip back up the Nile to Cairo. It is going to be AMAZING!!!!!! I can't pass this up! I had a Mount Holyoke friend who studied abroad in Cairo and she assured me it was worth it, plus the cost of the plane ticket from the states is nearly double the cost of the whole trip (including airfare from here). And the group of kids are really cool and we have been traveling well together. I think we will have a lot of fun, but let's be honest, even if I hated them, for this trip I would man up and deal.
Nairobi is a lot of fun. We are slowly getting braver and venturing further from our home. We have gone to the local market. Tried some restaurants. I haven't been brave enough to drive the local form of transportation, matatus, but some people have. I am still repeating in my head "look right, left, right" when crossing the street and haven't gotten hit yet, but walking back from school yesterday was certainly questionable. The only big difference is the pollution. They just outlawed leaded gas last year and they certainly don't have the emissions standards we have. I believe their version of the EPA began in 2004, so they are a bit behind in that arena. My boogers completely black from exhaust and I am constantly coughing. The other kids on the program seem nice, but we are all typical law students, so there have been some personality clashes already.
Other than that, nothing really exciting happening here (hahaha!!!) I have to go shower for my second day and last day of classes this week!!! It's an early morning tomorrow, leaving the apartment at 6am for the coast!!!
Saturday, June 9, 2007
Tales from the Bush Part 4
This will more than likely be my last captivating, awe inspiring post. As I write this I am surrounded by the familiar noises of a city, I have made it to Nairobi. However, I may subject you to occasional posts about the trials and tribulations of life in Nairobi.
My last week at the children's village was great, albeit typical. I loved being able to live in the houses with the kids, although the getting up at 6am was pretty rough but then again, since the sun sets at 7pm, we didn't have much of a reason to stay up late. My roommate was stricken with some mystery ailment that caused her to be out of commission for several days, leaving me in charge of 12 kids. Luckily, she is a trooper and even while feeling awful she still tried to lend a hand. Nothing wild and crazy happened last week, the routine became so familiar that it was easy to see everything as normal.
I left on Wednesday morning. It was probably the worst thing I have ever done. I kind of assumed that the kids were either used to people leaving frequently or wouldn't much care seeing how I had only been there three short weeks. I was wrong on both accounts. Several kids, mainly the ones that I lived with became very upset and I spent over an hour trying to soothe them and get them to stop crying. Five girls ended up following me to the land cruiser and it took another fifteen minutes to convince them to let go of me as I had to get into the car to leave. It was heart breaking. I believe volunteers are an integral part of success of the program but it was so hard to see the affect our departure has on the kids.
I was then driven the three hours down out of the mountains to Arusha where I stayed the night with some friends in town. It was interesting being in Arusha, it is not nearly as developed as Nairobi, still dirt side roads, but like Nairobi, there is a white presence that is apparent due to the gelato/coffee bars and the ability to get a manicure and pedicure (which of course I did!!). I was able to get some great food and enjoy lovely company before flying back up to Nairobi.
I am now making myself at home in Nairobi. The apartment building is a bit old and in the middle of renovations but it is safe and clean, so it will suffice as home for the next two months. We are a mile from the faculty of law and a few feet from the largest shopping center in Kenya, it is like any mall in America. There is a movie theater, restaurants, internet cafe, book store and other little shops I have yet to investigate. I am getting braver by the day and slowly leaving the confines of the Westlands area and exploring more. The rest of the group is out on safari but I decided that it would be nice to spend some down time before starting classes, so I opted to stay home for the weekend and regroup after a month with 41 children. The weather is pleasant, it is the winter here so the temp has been roughly 76-80 during the day and a comfortable 65 at night, I can certainly live with those numbers! The crime and illness are probably the least of my worries when compared to the vehicles and the terror they bring. If I don't die in some fiery crash because drivers refuse to look, yield, slow down or generally use common sense, I will certainly meet my end by not looking the right direction when stepping off the curb. I am so accustomed to looking left when stepping off the curb to cross the street that I am actually having to remind myself to look right before stepping off the curb lest I get hit by some 20 year old land cruiser held together by tape and clever welding.
Well, I need to go get some cash from the ATM at the mall, mail a package for a girl here and check on the cinema times (I am curious how far behind the states the movies are, but considering the stress of law school and my inability to get to the movies, I HIGHLY doubt I will have already seen the movie).
My last week at the children's village was great, albeit typical. I loved being able to live in the houses with the kids, although the getting up at 6am was pretty rough but then again, since the sun sets at 7pm, we didn't have much of a reason to stay up late. My roommate was stricken with some mystery ailment that caused her to be out of commission for several days, leaving me in charge of 12 kids. Luckily, she is a trooper and even while feeling awful she still tried to lend a hand. Nothing wild and crazy happened last week, the routine became so familiar that it was easy to see everything as normal.
I left on Wednesday morning. It was probably the worst thing I have ever done. I kind of assumed that the kids were either used to people leaving frequently or wouldn't much care seeing how I had only been there three short weeks. I was wrong on both accounts. Several kids, mainly the ones that I lived with became very upset and I spent over an hour trying to soothe them and get them to stop crying. Five girls ended up following me to the land cruiser and it took another fifteen minutes to convince them to let go of me as I had to get into the car to leave. It was heart breaking. I believe volunteers are an integral part of success of the program but it was so hard to see the affect our departure has on the kids.
I was then driven the three hours down out of the mountains to Arusha where I stayed the night with some friends in town. It was interesting being in Arusha, it is not nearly as developed as Nairobi, still dirt side roads, but like Nairobi, there is a white presence that is apparent due to the gelato/coffee bars and the ability to get a manicure and pedicure (which of course I did!!). I was able to get some great food and enjoy lovely company before flying back up to Nairobi.
I am now making myself at home in Nairobi. The apartment building is a bit old and in the middle of renovations but it is safe and clean, so it will suffice as home for the next two months. We are a mile from the faculty of law and a few feet from the largest shopping center in Kenya, it is like any mall in America. There is a movie theater, restaurants, internet cafe, book store and other little shops I have yet to investigate. I am getting braver by the day and slowly leaving the confines of the Westlands area and exploring more. The rest of the group is out on safari but I decided that it would be nice to spend some down time before starting classes, so I opted to stay home for the weekend and regroup after a month with 41 children. The weather is pleasant, it is the winter here so the temp has been roughly 76-80 during the day and a comfortable 65 at night, I can certainly live with those numbers! The crime and illness are probably the least of my worries when compared to the vehicles and the terror they bring. If I don't die in some fiery crash because drivers refuse to look, yield, slow down or generally use common sense, I will certainly meet my end by not looking the right direction when stepping off the curb. I am so accustomed to looking left when stepping off the curb to cross the street that I am actually having to remind myself to look right before stepping off the curb lest I get hit by some 20 year old land cruiser held together by tape and clever welding.
Well, I need to go get some cash from the ATM at the mall, mail a package for a girl here and check on the cinema times (I am curious how far behind the states the movies are, but considering the stress of law school and my inability to get to the movies, I HIGHLY doubt I will have already seen the movie).
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
Tales from the Bush Part 3
It is the end of week two. I am terrified, because the end of week two means the beginning of week three and I leave at the end of week three. It is odd how quickly this place felt like home. The routine was easy to fall into and I feel so comfortable here.
Week two was filled to the brim with amusement to say the least. I spent Wednesday, Thursday and Friday passed out in bed coming in and out of a 102 degree fever brought on by God knows what. I felt terrible for coming all this way and being sick so I probably made it worse by trying to get out of bed and go play with the kids. Once I gave in to being sick, I was on the mend by Saturday. I just drugged myself with Cipro, hoping the strength of the drug would kill whatever was living inside of me. A doctor was near to out of the question as the closest is at least an hour away and I just didn't like the idea of resources being wasted on me and not the kids. But, all is well now. Plus, I learned having a fever sucks, ALOT. My roommate Coco came in at one point and I had a winter hat, sweat pants, yoga pants, a fleece and a hoodie on. I think she was convinced I was either crazy, going to die or a bit of both.
The other big news of week two was that I got to move into one of the children's houses. Two long term volunteers from Tennessee left on Sunday, and Coco and I with all of our 10 days worth of experience were the next senior people, thus it seemed a good idea to move us in with 11 kids, an 18 month old and two mamas. It is certainly an experience. There are five girls in one room and 6 boys in the other, with baby Vicente living in the mamas room. The kids get up by 6am and aren't in bed and asleep until 8pm. I have never worked an 14 hour day, it is long, not sure if I like it. I even find myself napping at 1pm with the kids in order to make it to dinner time. I really like living with the kids though, I like being the first person they see and the last person to kiss them good night. Only a few hitches, the girls take forever, already, getting dressed and at bath time. I need a cattle prod to get them going sometimes. I could have killed all of them the other night, I was awoken by an odd noise in the night (odd noises are the norm, so normal noises seem odd), I check my watch, it is 2am, there is no reason unless someone is sick, for a child to be out of bed. I get up to investigate and as it turns out, all the girls, at 2am decided that they should get up, brush their teeth, get dressed and sit with their backpacks on. My only thought is that they took my suggestion of being more on time getting ready literally, thus my motivational speech backfired and resulted in them being up at 2am. I was pissed. I came down on them hard, mainly because I know that they did it to the last two girls in the house, then I felt bad. Aside from that hiccup, life in the house is good but loud, why do kids have to yell everything when they have perfectly good inside voices. I have learned how to detect a fever, treat ringworm, see if a boo-boo needs a bandaid and treat the hacking cough that would probably send any American child to the doctor but here it is normal. I have started helping out at kindergarten in the mornings. For kids who come here and have little or no english, they start out at kindergarten as a way of preparing them for school. It is 10 kids, mostly under the age of 5 tearing about, climbing all over me and having a grand old time. It is usually pretty amusing and all the terror is made up for when they curl up in your lap and ask for a story, it makes it all worth it. Today was wonderful, on Wednesdays we eat with the kids, chipati (round flat bread that is kinda sweeter than a pita but the same idea) and beans. Last week, prior to faling deathly ill, the mamas taught me how to make them and this week they insisted that I help. So, to the amusement of all the Tanzanians around, I rolled out several chipati and mama even let me eat the first one, which was easily detectable because it was less than round. Simple pleasures here!
The elephants continue to ravage the village, much of the corn has been totally destroyed. The government has offered a sum of 20,000 per person affect (roughly $18 dollars) to supplement an entire season's worth of corn. I feel really terribly, because on the one hand I have become a member of this village and hate the way the elephants negatively affect their lives. But on the other, after 4 months in Kenya I have grown attached to them and know the positive they can do. I will certainly miss hearing elephants in the night munching on the corn.
So, I fly back to Nairobi next Thursday, head out to Lake Naivasha three hours north of Nairobi for a weekend safari and then classes start June 10th. It is going to be a huge change from here, to the big city of Nairobi. It will be just as loud but not the sound of screaming children, but instead cars and exhaust.
I have no clue how I am going to leave next Wednesday. They have become my kids that I am totally attached to. Regardless of anything negative that has or may happen, the kids make it worth it. When another volunteers gets on my nerves I just have to remind myself that I am not here to make friends, that I am here to give something of myself. I love it here.
Week two was filled to the brim with amusement to say the least. I spent Wednesday, Thursday and Friday passed out in bed coming in and out of a 102 degree fever brought on by God knows what. I felt terrible for coming all this way and being sick so I probably made it worse by trying to get out of bed and go play with the kids. Once I gave in to being sick, I was on the mend by Saturday. I just drugged myself with Cipro, hoping the strength of the drug would kill whatever was living inside of me. A doctor was near to out of the question as the closest is at least an hour away and I just didn't like the idea of resources being wasted on me and not the kids. But, all is well now. Plus, I learned having a fever sucks, ALOT. My roommate Coco came in at one point and I had a winter hat, sweat pants, yoga pants, a fleece and a hoodie on. I think she was convinced I was either crazy, going to die or a bit of both.
The other big news of week two was that I got to move into one of the children's houses. Two long term volunteers from Tennessee left on Sunday, and Coco and I with all of our 10 days worth of experience were the next senior people, thus it seemed a good idea to move us in with 11 kids, an 18 month old and two mamas. It is certainly an experience. There are five girls in one room and 6 boys in the other, with baby Vicente living in the mamas room. The kids get up by 6am and aren't in bed and asleep until 8pm. I have never worked an 14 hour day, it is long, not sure if I like it. I even find myself napping at 1pm with the kids in order to make it to dinner time. I really like living with the kids though, I like being the first person they see and the last person to kiss them good night. Only a few hitches, the girls take forever, already, getting dressed and at bath time. I need a cattle prod to get them going sometimes. I could have killed all of them the other night, I was awoken by an odd noise in the night (odd noises are the norm, so normal noises seem odd), I check my watch, it is 2am, there is no reason unless someone is sick, for a child to be out of bed. I get up to investigate and as it turns out, all the girls, at 2am decided that they should get up, brush their teeth, get dressed and sit with their backpacks on. My only thought is that they took my suggestion of being more on time getting ready literally, thus my motivational speech backfired and resulted in them being up at 2am. I was pissed. I came down on them hard, mainly because I know that they did it to the last two girls in the house, then I felt bad. Aside from that hiccup, life in the house is good but loud, why do kids have to yell everything when they have perfectly good inside voices. I have learned how to detect a fever, treat ringworm, see if a boo-boo needs a bandaid and treat the hacking cough that would probably send any American child to the doctor but here it is normal. I have started helping out at kindergarten in the mornings. For kids who come here and have little or no english, they start out at kindergarten as a way of preparing them for school. It is 10 kids, mostly under the age of 5 tearing about, climbing all over me and having a grand old time. It is usually pretty amusing and all the terror is made up for when they curl up in your lap and ask for a story, it makes it all worth it. Today was wonderful, on Wednesdays we eat with the kids, chipati (round flat bread that is kinda sweeter than a pita but the same idea) and beans. Last week, prior to faling deathly ill, the mamas taught me how to make them and this week they insisted that I help. So, to the amusement of all the Tanzanians around, I rolled out several chipati and mama even let me eat the first one, which was easily detectable because it was less than round. Simple pleasures here!
The elephants continue to ravage the village, much of the corn has been totally destroyed. The government has offered a sum of 20,000 per person affect (roughly $18 dollars) to supplement an entire season's worth of corn. I feel really terribly, because on the one hand I have become a member of this village and hate the way the elephants negatively affect their lives. But on the other, after 4 months in Kenya I have grown attached to them and know the positive they can do. I will certainly miss hearing elephants in the night munching on the corn.
So, I fly back to Nairobi next Thursday, head out to Lake Naivasha three hours north of Nairobi for a weekend safari and then classes start June 10th. It is going to be a huge change from here, to the big city of Nairobi. It will be just as loud but not the sound of screaming children, but instead cars and exhaust.
I have no clue how I am going to leave next Wednesday. They have become my kids that I am totally attached to. Regardless of anything negative that has or may happen, the kids make it worth it. When another volunteers gets on my nerves I just have to remind myself that I am not here to make friends, that I am here to give something of myself. I love it here.
Wednesday, May 23, 2007
Tales from the Bush Part 2
HABARI!
I am here at the Rift Valley Children's Village outside of Karatu, Tanzania. It is amazing. I honestly did not know what to expect, the web site certainly did not do this place justice. The drive from the lodge took about an hour on one of the worst dirt roads I have ever experienced, but in typical African fashion it phased no one but me. The road wove through corn fields, wheat fields and coffee plantations. I arrived during dinner time, so the place was quiet, something I did not expect from an orphanage. "The Site" as the kids refer to it is made up of a volunteer house, where I stay, two children's houses with 12 kids in each, two volunteers and two mamas, staff houses, football pitches and construction for future buildings. The site is located on the side of the Ngorongoro crater, so the view greeting me in the morning is just amazing, million dollar real estate in the third world.
The kids are amazing. Given what they have each gone through (from beatings, to AIDS, to near death from hunger), they are all so fabulous. It is shocking to me that in under a week I have fallen in love with each of them and honestly fear leaving because I am so attached. I have never been hugged more in my life. I help with everything from 6am getting out of bed, 7am to school, 9am walk, lunch time, nap time, play time, snack time, bath time and bed time. They are so full of energy, easily draining mine! Despite the long hours, it is all worth it when someone comes running up to hug you or kiss you or show you something they have done. It is hard to write it all down, the pictures will help once I get them onto my computer.
There is never want for excitement here, as the elephants have recently discovered the surrounding corn. Every evening all the volunteers and the local towns people go bounding through the corn in search of elephants. Most days we find them. They are a huge problem, easily leveling an entire season of corn in a night. But it is hilarious most of the time. Everyone laughing and screaming, but I try to remember this is also insanely dangerous! Everything is an adventure here!!
I am here at the Rift Valley Children's Village outside of Karatu, Tanzania. It is amazing. I honestly did not know what to expect, the web site certainly did not do this place justice. The drive from the lodge took about an hour on one of the worst dirt roads I have ever experienced, but in typical African fashion it phased no one but me. The road wove through corn fields, wheat fields and coffee plantations. I arrived during dinner time, so the place was quiet, something I did not expect from an orphanage. "The Site" as the kids refer to it is made up of a volunteer house, where I stay, two children's houses with 12 kids in each, two volunteers and two mamas, staff houses, football pitches and construction for future buildings. The site is located on the side of the Ngorongoro crater, so the view greeting me in the morning is just amazing, million dollar real estate in the third world.
The kids are amazing. Given what they have each gone through (from beatings, to AIDS, to near death from hunger), they are all so fabulous. It is shocking to me that in under a week I have fallen in love with each of them and honestly fear leaving because I am so attached. I have never been hugged more in my life. I help with everything from 6am getting out of bed, 7am to school, 9am walk, lunch time, nap time, play time, snack time, bath time and bed time. They are so full of energy, easily draining mine! Despite the long hours, it is all worth it when someone comes running up to hug you or kiss you or show you something they have done. It is hard to write it all down, the pictures will help once I get them onto my computer.
There is never want for excitement here, as the elephants have recently discovered the surrounding corn. Every evening all the volunteers and the local towns people go bounding through the corn in search of elephants. Most days we find them. They are a huge problem, easily leveling an entire season of corn in a night. But it is hilarious most of the time. Everyone laughing and screaming, but I try to remember this is also insanely dangerous! Everything is an adventure here!!
Friday, May 18, 2007
Tales from the Bush
After 17 hours in planes, 6 hours in air ports and 4 hours in various vehicles, I have arrived safely in Tanzania!! It is great to be back, it is almost even better to discover several internet cafes in town at 1000 Tsh/minute ($1/minute) to be online.
My first night was spent in Nairobi at a friend's parent's house. They were so kind and welcoming, but let's be honest, I probably could have slept anywhere at that point, I was exhausted. Tuesday morning I headed back to the airport (that I left 12 hours before) to fly to northern Tanzania.My tour guide was late, but given the existence of "African Time" (absolutely nothing happens on a western schedule, it is totally acceptable and normal to be hours late), I was unphased. I was eventually met by the tour operator who planned my safari, she is wonderful. She in English and crazy and just so very hippy. Her and I drove to Arusha (one of the capitals) where I was met by another driver who took my an hour west where I was met by another driver. Luckily, the government has paved the road, so it was tarmac the entire way (the same cannot be said to where I was in Kenya 2 years ago). My third driver was also my tour guide for my two day safari.
Aladiin, my guide, took my first to Lake Manyara, a giant alkaline lake that abuts the wall of the Rift Valley, which is surprisingly a vertical wall arising from nowhere. The lake is home to hundreds of species of birds, and if you know of my dislike for birds, was a bit hard, especially the GIANT human sized pelicans, ok, maybe not human size but close, it could have eaten me! After our game drive in the park, he took me to the lodge where I was staying. It is beautiful. The staff are all amazing, a top notch place given the location. Further, the food is world class, really great. I was well fed and sent to bed because Aladiin set a 6am wake up call for me so that the second day could begin at 7am. Dear lord, so the math, that is 10pm est (maybe not, I have yet to figure out the time zones and still mess it up when talking to friends in Europe). After being woken up at 6am and suffering through extreme confusion (where am I, what time is it, why are my lights being flashed), I headed out on day 2 to Ngorongoro Crater, which may be my favorite park in East Africa thus far. It is a dormant volcano that collapsed in onto itself creating a perfect crater (think craters on the moon!). The environment in this area is very very lush and green, home to some of the best coffee in the world, so the drive up the wall of the crater was green, jungle-esque and it took an hour. Then once you hit the top, the expanse of the crater is seen, it is exactly like what you picture of Africa (or at least what I pictured), plains with a few trees dotting the landscape. It was such a change from the drive up the crater wall. Then we dropped 600 meters in the crater. I was lucky enough to see the entire big five (cape buffalo, elephant, leopard, rhino and lion). It was a fantastic, but very long day.
I am heading to the orphanage in a few hours. I am terribly excited but rumor has it (yup, even small towns in Africa suffer from sharp tongues and rumors) that one of the volunteers is just vile. She is apparently very rich or has good connections, so is bringing in money, thus she has been allowed to stay, but she is apparently awful to local staff and volunteers alike. But the other two volunteers are supposed to be lovely, so I plan on not letting her under my skin too much.
Alright, I must gather my things and prepare to became a "mama" (because I am white, thus I look like the other volunteers and because they can't remember names) to 41 kids! Dear lord, if this isn't the perfect birth control, I don't know what is!!
My first night was spent in Nairobi at a friend's parent's house. They were so kind and welcoming, but let's be honest, I probably could have slept anywhere at that point, I was exhausted. Tuesday morning I headed back to the airport (that I left 12 hours before) to fly to northern Tanzania.My tour guide was late, but given the existence of "African Time" (absolutely nothing happens on a western schedule, it is totally acceptable and normal to be hours late), I was unphased. I was eventually met by the tour operator who planned my safari, she is wonderful. She in English and crazy and just so very hippy. Her and I drove to Arusha (one of the capitals) where I was met by another driver who took my an hour west where I was met by another driver. Luckily, the government has paved the road, so it was tarmac the entire way (the same cannot be said to where I was in Kenya 2 years ago). My third driver was also my tour guide for my two day safari.
Aladiin, my guide, took my first to Lake Manyara, a giant alkaline lake that abuts the wall of the Rift Valley, which is surprisingly a vertical wall arising from nowhere. The lake is home to hundreds of species of birds, and if you know of my dislike for birds, was a bit hard, especially the GIANT human sized pelicans, ok, maybe not human size but close, it could have eaten me! After our game drive in the park, he took me to the lodge where I was staying. It is beautiful. The staff are all amazing, a top notch place given the location. Further, the food is world class, really great. I was well fed and sent to bed because Aladiin set a 6am wake up call for me so that the second day could begin at 7am. Dear lord, so the math, that is 10pm est (maybe not, I have yet to figure out the time zones and still mess it up when talking to friends in Europe). After being woken up at 6am and suffering through extreme confusion (where am I, what time is it, why are my lights being flashed), I headed out on day 2 to Ngorongoro Crater, which may be my favorite park in East Africa thus far. It is a dormant volcano that collapsed in onto itself creating a perfect crater (think craters on the moon!). The environment in this area is very very lush and green, home to some of the best coffee in the world, so the drive up the wall of the crater was green, jungle-esque and it took an hour. Then once you hit the top, the expanse of the crater is seen, it is exactly like what you picture of Africa (or at least what I pictured), plains with a few trees dotting the landscape. It was such a change from the drive up the crater wall. Then we dropped 600 meters in the crater. I was lucky enough to see the entire big five (cape buffalo, elephant, leopard, rhino and lion). It was a fantastic, but very long day.
I am heading to the orphanage in a few hours. I am terribly excited but rumor has it (yup, even small towns in Africa suffer from sharp tongues and rumors) that one of the volunteers is just vile. She is apparently very rich or has good connections, so is bringing in money, thus she has been allowed to stay, but she is apparently awful to local staff and volunteers alike. But the other two volunteers are supposed to be lovely, so I plan on not letting her under my skin too much.
Alright, I must gather my things and prepare to became a "mama" (because I am white, thus I look like the other volunteers and because they can't remember names) to 41 kids! Dear lord, if this isn't the perfect birth control, I don't know what is!!
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